🔍 Key Finding

Vitis vinifera (grape) extracts, particularly from leaves, seeds, and skins, exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-whitening properties, suggesting their potential use in cosmetic formulations for anti-aging, UV protection, and skin lightening. These properties are attributed to the rich presence of polyphenols, including flavonoids, stilbenoids, and anthocyanins.

🔬 Methodology Overview

• Design: Narrative review.

• Data Sources: Published literature.

• Selection Criteria: Studies on Vitis vinifera and its cosmetic applications.

• Analysis Approach: Qualitative synthesis of botanical, ecological, phytochemical, and biological activity data.

• Scope: Vitis vinifera as a cosmetic raw material, including its extraction, analysis, biological activities, safety, and biotechnological potential.

📊 Results

• Vitis vinifera leaf extract protects against UV damage: Induced sirtuin 1 (SIRT1) and heat shock protein 47 (HSP47) in human dermal fibroblasts under normal and UV conditions, suggesting potential anti-aging and protective effects.

• Vitis vinifera skin extract shows sunscreen potential: In vitro SPF of 18.56, UVA protection factor of 3.17, critical wavelength of 318 nm, and UVA/UVB ratio of 0.9. Demonstrated antioxidant activity by reducing DPPH and ABTS concentrations by 92.08% and 86.85%, respectively.

• Vitis vinifera leaf extract exhibits anti-inflammatory activity: Inhibited interleukin-8 (IL-8) secretion induced by TNF-α (IC50= 2.60) and LPS (IC50= 14.04) in human keratinocytes. Also inhibited nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) driven transcription.

• Vitis vinifera leaf extract demonstrates skin-whitening potential: Reduced tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner (IC50= 3.84 mg/mL) via a competitive mechanism.

• Vitis vinifera cane extracts show varying tyrosinase inhibition and SIRT activation: Riesling extract showed the highest SIRT activation (171%) and high tyrosinase inhibition (62.5%). #-viniferin and trans-resveratrol showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition (76% and 75% respectively).

• Vitis vinifera fruit extract possesses high antioxidant activity: Showed the highest antioxidant capacity among four tested fruit extracts (IC50 values: ABTS = 0.040 mg/mL, FRAP = 0.98 mg/mL, DPPH = 0.270 mg/mL, and ORAC = 2036 μM TE/g).

• Vitis vinifera pomace extract shows antimicrobial activity: Supercritical fluid extracts showed high antimicrobial activity, particularly against Gram-positive bacteria. Merlot variety extract was effective against C. albicans and C. krusei (MIC of 500 μg/mL).

💡 Clinical Impact

Vitis vinifera extracts demonstrate antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-whitening properties, suggesting potential use in cosmeceuticals for anti-aging, UV protection, and skin lightening; however, further clinical trials are needed to confirm these effects and establish optimal formulations and dosages for therapeutic use.

🤔 Limitations

• Limited long-term studies on the effects of Vitis vinifera extracts on skin health.

• Lack of standardization of Vitis vinifera extracts used in cosmetic formulations.

• Potential for allergic reactions in certain individuals, particularly to Vitis vinifera var. Reiber and var. Tokays.

• Limited data on the optimal concentrations and delivery methods of Vitis vinifera extracts for cosmetic applications.

• Potential interactions between Vitis vinifera extracts and other cosmetic ingredients or medications.

• Variability in the chemical composition of Vitis vinifera extracts depending on variety, growing conditions, and extraction methods.

• Limited clinical trial data specifically evaluating the long-term efficacy and safety of Vitis vinifera-based cosmetics.