Can Grape-Derived Cosmetics Turn Back the Clock and Soothe Skin Troubles?

by Haroon Ahmad, MD June 13, 2025

Vitis viniferaCosmetics

🔍 Key Finding

Vitis vinifera (grape) extracts, particularly from leaves, seeds, and skins, exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-whitening properties, suggesting their potential use in cosmetic formulations for anti-aging, UV protection, and skin lightening. These properties are attributed to the rich presence of polyphenols, including flavonoids, stilbenoids, and anthocyanins.

🔬 Methodology Overview

Design: Narrative review.
Data Sources: Published literature.
Selection Criteria: Studies on Vitis vinifera and its cosmetic applications.
Analysis Approach: Qualitative synthesis of botanical, ecological, phytochemical, and biological activity data.
Scope: Vitis vinifera as a cosmetic raw material, including its extraction, analysis, biological activities, safety, and biotechnological potential.

📊 Results

Vitis vinifera leaf extract protects against UV damage: Induced sirtuin 1 (SIRT1) and heat shock protein 47 (HSP47) in human dermal fibroblasts under normal and UV conditions, suggesting potential anti-aging and protective effects.
Vitis vinifera skin extract shows sunscreen potential: In vitro SPF of 18.56, UVA protection factor of 3.17, critical wavelength of 318 nm, and UVA/UVB ratio of 0.9. Demonstrated antioxidant activity by reducing DPPH and ABTS concentrations by 92.08% and 86.85%, respectively.
Vitis vinifera leaf extract exhibits anti-inflammatory activity: Inhibited interleukin-8 (IL-8) secretion induced by TNF-α (IC50 = 2.60) and LPS (IC50 = 14.04) in human keratinocytes. Also inhibited nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) driven transcription.
Vitis vinifera leaf extract demonstrates skin-whitening potential: Reduced tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner (IC50 = 3.84 mg/mL) via a competitive mechanism.
Vitis vinifera cane extracts show varying tyrosinase inhibition and SIRT activation: Riesling extract showed the highest SIRT activation (171%) and high tyrosinase inhibition (62.5%). ε-viniferin and trans-resveratrol showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition (76% and 75% respectively).
Vitis vinifera fruit extract possesses high antioxidant activity: Showed the highest antioxidant capacity among four tested fruit extracts (IC50 values: ABTS = 0.040 mg/mL, FRAP = 0.98 mg/mL, DPPH = 0.270 mg/mL, and ORAC = 2036 μM TE/g).
Vitis vinifera pomace extract shows antimicrobial activity: Supercritical fluid extracts showed high antimicrobial activity, particularly against Gram-positive bacteria. Merlot variety extract was effective against C. albicans and C. krusei (MIC of 500 μg/mL).

💡 Clinical Impact

Vitis vinifera extracts demonstrate antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-whitening properties, suggesting potential use in cosmeceuticals for anti-aging, UV protection, and skin lightening; however, further clinical trials are needed to confirm these effects and establish optimal formulations and dosages for therapeutic use.

🤔 Limitations

Limited long-term studies on the effects of Vitis vinifera extracts on skin health.
Lack of standardization of Vitis vinifera extracts used in cosmetic formulations.
Potential for allergic reactions in certain individuals, particularly to Vitis vinifera var. Reiber and var. Tokays.
Limited data on the optimal concentrations and delivery methods of Vitis vinifera extracts for cosmetic applications.
Potential interactions between Vitis vinifera extracts and other cosmetic ingredients or medications.
Variability in the chemical composition of Vitis vinifera extracts depending on variety, growing conditions, and extraction methods.
Limited clinical trial data specifically evaluating the long-term efficacy and safety of Vitis vinifera-based cosmetics.

✨ What It Means For You

This research suggests that Vitis vinifera extracts may offer benefits for patients with skin conditions due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and UV-protective properties. Doctors may consider these findings when recommending cosmetic products or exploring potential therapeutic applications of grape-derived compounds for dermatological issues. Further research, particularly clinical trials, is needed to confirm these effects and establish safe and effective dosages.

Reference

Sharafan M, Malinowska MA, Ekiert H, Kwaśniak B, Sikora E, Szopa A. Vitis vinifera (Vine Grape) as a Valuable Cosmetic Raw Material. Pharmaceutics. 2023;15:1372. https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics15051372